Day 5: From Neufchateau to Epernay
Yesterday’s long session got me thinking that I could get all the way to the champagne region today (a day early) if I rode quickly and didn’t make any big wrong turns. It was a pleasure to leave uninspired Neufchateau after a quick breakfast and start the route along the country roads. The weather was hot and sunny, and the roads were reasonably flat, but never quite as direct as I wanted. I usually chose to take wandering and quiet backroads instead of more direct and busy highways. This was relaxing cycling, but made navigation more challenging. Then in the late morning, I saw the best of both worlds: the Marne canal!
This is a bike path following a canal connecting the champagne and burgundy regions, which leads all the way to Epernay! It was like stumbling into the yellow brick road, a private superhighway for bicycles. Much of it was as nice as this picture shows:

But other parts were rough gravel and bumpy mud — not a problem, thanks to my preparation on the cattle path last week in Switzerland. I spent 6 hours riding along the canal, making great time except for when it disappeared through 2 big cities. On the bright side, the cities gave me a chance to refuel and check out the local scene.

The last 2 hours of the trip were hectic, as I was trying my hardest to get to the Epernay tourist office to find a place to stay for the night. After a cyclocross-style effort I made it with minutes to spare, and the nice people there helped me get a wonderful room at a B&B just outside the main town. Here’s the view of the vineyard outside my room as the sun set.

What better way to celebrate than with a glass of champagne? How about with an additional glass of wine and a fancy dinner? Done!
(today’s route was 180km)